Is Cruising Really Travel?

My post of yesterday has started an interesting discussion on The Gold Standard Forum with a question posed by Diebroke (I love that name!): Is Cruising Really Travel?

I thought it better to express my thoughts here and allow others to discuss their feelings on the forum. What is interesting about the premise is that a cruise is a personal thing. For every single person that walks onto a cruise ship their idea of what a cruise is differs, their desires differ, their aspirations differ and, therefore, their perspectives differ. That is why, in large part, there are so many different flavors of cruise lines.

But before I get to that I do want to point out a bit of irony. Diebroke mentioned a June 29, 2009 blog post by Arthur Frommer, the travel writer and publisher entitled: My 12-Day Med Cruise: Loads and Loads of Fun, But Not the Deeply Fulfilling Activity Travel Can Be. The article starts of, "Don't ever call it Travel. It's not. At best, it's a prelude to travel, like the appetizers that precede a meal, like an hors d'oeuvre. It's like those whirlwind tours by escorted motorcoach that used to bring you 13 countries in 14 days." Knowing that Frommer's Guide information is going to be available on my website Goldring Travel very soon, the irony becomes apparent.

One must juxtapose Mr. Frommer's comments from the philosophy of AFAR Magazine, "If your idea is staying at big-name chain hotels, touching every attraction in the guidebook, easting what you eat at home, and being in bed by 9 p.m., we're afraid that AFAR might not be for you." Respectfully, isn't AFAR referring to the very same Frommer's Guides???

And then there is the Iamboatman/Goldring Travel approach. Yesterday I said it very clearly: Cruises are supposed to be about travel; seeing new places and seeking out life-enriching experiences.

How can that exist if Arthur Frommer says it doesn't? It is simple: Frommer's is a wonderful and reliable resource for "information". It is not a resource for "how to travel" or "how to see things". Arther Frommer made a huge mistake...because he obviously doesn't have the experience of traveling by cruise ship: He did what the cruise line told him to do! (Didn't we just have a "discussion" yesterday that it is up to the traveler to do what is best for him/her, not be trained by the cruise line, because doing otherwise is fraught with danger?)

Mr. Frommer speaks of motorcoaches. Anyone who has ever sought my advice will tell you that I pretty much suggest avoiding taking a ship's tour "with 50 of your favorite new friends". (How many of you have heard me say that? Show of hands!) There is usually no good reason to get on the bus. It will, especially on the larger ships/lines, be a huge disappointment and a frustration.

Example: (And I have written about this, so obviously Mr. Frommer hasn't read my blog!) Next month I am taking my family on the Celebrity Equinox and will be visiting Israel for two days. We have arranged an expert guide specializing in Jewish history to take our family in a private van from Haifa to Jerusalem to Ashdod, overnighting at a Palestinian owned and operated hotel in Jerusalem. The cruise ship experience (at substantially more money BTW) is a bus ride to and from Haifa to see things from a more Christian view (the obvious majority) and then the next day is another long bus ride to and from Ashdod to see Jerusalem...or an overnight at a non-descript hotel at even more money. Hence, many more hours in a bus, less seen, less done, less experiences.

Mr. Frommer speaks of it being a prelude to travel, like appetizers. That comment, to me, is so "ugly American". If you have been to Paris you have been to France. If you can't see it all, why bother going. Who came up with stuff? Spain, Italy and other cultures have made such things an entire cuisine and mainstay of a lifestyle: Tapas anyone? Ever go to a really good buffet and get excited because you don't know where to start. It all looks so good, but you don't want to overfill your plate. So you carefully plan and taste the things that look best to you. You then say, "That was good, but not as good as I thought" or "I want more of that. I have to make a second trip to the buffet" Cruise travel is exactly the same thing.

I have written extensively on how to travel and have given hours and hours of advice to my clients on how to do it so that it is "life-enriching". I have been to Athens how many times? I am excited to go back because there is is the brand new Museum. I was just in Venice last month and "have to" go back in September where I will take a walking wine tour. Rhodes - looking forward to getting lost in the labyrinth of alleys again. Do you remember my story of the little restaurant in St. Tropez which we found only by strolling around and seeing a wonderful galvanized bucket with bright red gladiolas down a very narrow alley? What of the wonderful woman in Sirince, Turkey who cooked and cooked for our small group? Ever get lost in culinary heaven at La Boqueria in Barcelona? These are not bus trips. They are not 50 people with a flag-holding guide. But they are all life experiences taken in while on cruises.

And then there are the comments about Santorini, for example. They may never made it out of the town of Fira! We rented a car, drove to Akrotiri to see the Minoan ruins, stopped for lunch at a local restaurant with awesome views (and pretty much no English spoken), walked on the black sand beaches, dropped the car, dropped the kids back on the ship and came back to enjoy an incredible sunset with a bottle of local wine and fruit before making it back to ship. An incredible day...and not one shopping. (OK, we did some shopping.)

Mykonos - OK, the place is not one of my favorites. But the last time I was "blessed" with having to shop for some dresses with my wife. (Long story.) My reward was being able to sit in a waterfront restaurant with my friend for a couple of hours and watch the boats in the harbour and the people on the promenade. It was, to be sure, quite Greek as we drank ouzo, beer and ate olives and anchovies. (I could have taken the $49 cruise ship bus to the beach, but I thought my experience would be better.)

Naples - Ever try the high speed ferry to Capri for the day? What about a family walking tour where you make pizza in a true Neapolitan pizzeria?

You get the point.

So where does the cruise ship come in. Is it merely transportation? No, it is alas much more. Whether you want Royal Caribbean's "Why Not?" (I love that!!) or Seabourn's "This Is My Yacht" you can find different ways to wind down or up. For me, I prefer a soak in a whirlpool with a glass of champagne, a great meal (assuming I haven't over-indulged on land...or maybe so anyway), some nice conversation with new shipmates and a nightcap. Others want discos and rock climbing. Whatever floats your boat.

So, as I said yesterday, Now regardless of what the cruise lines are doing, in their various forms, it is incumbent upon the traveler to do that which they originally intended to do: Travel.

Mr. Frommer, do you need a good travel agent? I know one. Do you need a good magazine to teach you how to travel? I know one of those too! (I couldn't resist. It is, of course, said in fun and with respect.)

Let's Get Back to Basics - Why Do We Do This Stuff????

The past few weeks have been a sort of a travel roller coaster.

I spent a fantastic two days on the Seabourn Odyssey marveling at what a fantastic ship she is; absolutely dumbfounded by how incredible the Seabourn staff, crew and executives pulled off a miracle after her horrifically late deliver and the shocking condition T. Marrioti left the ship in.

That was sandwiched in between two wonderful days in Venice with incredible views, outstanding stays at the Ca' Segredo Hotel, and my favorite meal of liver and onions in a little local restaurant as we watched a local man eat his meal, sleep for about an hour and then carry on as if all is normal (as he apparently does nightly). And it was coupled with my planning for a great family cruise on the brand new Celebrity Equinox visiting Israel, Egypt, Turkey, Greece and Italy at an absurdly low price. (What could be bad?)

And then I returned to complaints of chaos in the dining room of a Regent Seven Seas ship, demands for more "compensation" for non-compensable issues on a recent cruise, the absurdity of "Fire Sale" marketing by Silversea and, frankly, ridiculous marketing by Seabourn which I believe cheapens its product and name.

So I ask, "With many of the ships essentially full, WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON?"

Before I answer that I want you to watch a short video from the owners of a new travel magazine AFAR, which I will be at the launch party for next month:



Cruises are supposed to be about travel; seeing new places and seeking out life-enriching experiences.

Cruises are supposed to be about cruise lines providing the traveler with excellent service (expectations adjusted accordingly dependent on price) and facilities to relax and recharge in while transporting us to the next life-enriching experiences.

Cruises are supposed to be about not seeking perfection or finding things to complain about, but rather the enjoyment of an overall experience.

Unfortunately it seems, as I was afraid would be the case (and which I have written about), the cruise lines cut rate pricing has created a monster...and it is a monster that many cruisers are feeding. I will get to the cruise lines in a minute, but first those feeding the monster.

When things are great the small misses (an unreplenished refrigerator or trying to get a second cup of coffee) are noted, but are weighted as rather petty in light of the entire cruise experience. Now, for some - not all - it "goes on The List". That list becomes the focus - or the game of "How I get a free cruise or big discount" - rather than why I went on the cruise to begin with.

You remember that sleeping man in the restaurant I spoke of earlier. I could have said, "That is outrageous! How dare they allow him to sleep away while I am trying to enjoy my dinner. My dinner is ruined." Instead I said, "What an interesting piece of life! Strange, but interesting. I must truly be in a local spot and what a treat it is to be able to enjoy (or tolerate...take your pick) this moment as if I lived in Venice. It makes my liver and onions taste, well, so uniquely Venetian."

Now there are those that will remember most the missing towel or overcooked fish, but they will actually be the ones that probably will forget they were on the cruise, first and foremost, to be travelers. They turned into the dreaded (by some) "dealmakers". It is all about the "deal".

I firmly believe this has come about, in large part, because over the past months the cruise lines have trained the cruising public that it is about the deal and not about the travel or life-enriching experiences.  After years of trying to make it clear that waiting until the last minute is not a good travel strategy, the cruise lines panicked and decided that more important than long-term price and quality integrity, there must be short term "fill the ships" cut-rate pricing and deals.  So all the effort of the past years to have product integrity has been effectively tossed out.  Add to that some cruise lines loss of cash positions causing changes that reduce the quality of their product. 

Regent has suffered this for a long time and, despite its good faith and concentrated efforts to correct the errors of its prior owners, it is a long process that involves far more than training dining room staff (if the shipboard management doesn't get it, how the heck are they going to train the staff properly?).  Add to that what is a now commonly reported complaint of people that don't normally cruise on open liquor ships are running a bit amuck, interfering with "travel"...and then The List begins and the "I need to be compensated" becomes the focus.

Then there is the Silversea approach (now being somewhat mimicked, but purely for marketing reasons, by Seabourn) of doing anything to get people on their ships.  Increase base prices slightly so that 60% discounts with free air can be offered...with onboard credits too!  They must be desperate, right?!  And then the thoughts of , "Gee, Silversea has cut back here or there.  It just isn't the same. I better start my list!"...placing all the neat stuff to the rear ("That is what I paid for, so why does that count?) and forgetting about the life-enriching travel.

This is followed by Seabourn's most recent marketing "One Week Sale" approach.  I swear it is like opening the newspaper or watching television and hearing a commercial for Macy's  (Lowest prices of the season!  Hurry, limited supplies!, etc.) or, worse, a commercial from a local automobile dealership (A Cadillac for only $200.  That's right, only $200. Of course the Cadillac is a 1984 Sedan deVille.)  Now Seabourn is pitching a $1,349 cruise with cruises selling for $5,499.  The ad doesn't tell you that the first cruise, at $270 a day, is for a historically very low demand 5 day cruise that may or may not become a charter or that the second one is  14 day cruise at a 45% higher per diem.  If the lines, especially Seabourn, treats its prospective guests in such a fashion, what is it that can be expected?...The List.

Now regardless of what the cruise lines are doing, in their various forms, it is incumbent upon the traveler to do that which they originally intended to do:  Travel.  Don't get sucked in.  The cruise lines will see their ways are wrong, but that does little for the guest that used to be thrilled despite the little errors and now has "The List".

Travel.

Seabourn Wins Travel & Leisure Magazine's Top Small Cruise Line Award

You know I hate these "awards", but I feel compelled to provide the information because some people find them of great interest.

The Yachts of Seabourn has won the 2009 Travel & Leisure Magazine Award as the No. 1 Small Ship Cruise Line.

What is interesting is that the category was dominated by river cruises with Silversea being No. 3 and Regent not even in the category (and, I might add, properly not). Next cruise line was Windstar at No. 7 followed by SeaDream at No. 8.

I am not sure what Lindblad Expeditions has done to garner No. 5, but suffice it to say whatever the standard (other than multiple votes), Seabourn and Silversea would logically need to be measured by a different standard than Linblad...IMHO.

Newest Seabourn Sale - I Am NOT Impressed

You are going to see lots of promotions for next week. Take a Seabourn cruise for as low at $1,345.00. Before you get all excited, this price is for one five day cruise and the number of cruises included are actually very limited.

And if you really look at the pricing, even the itineraries are good, but the concept of Seabourn giving away cruises is just misleading...and I don't like it.

Here are the details...and if it works for you great:

The sale starts on Monday, July 13 and the ends on Monday, July 20.

Seabourn Legend
11/23/2009 14 days Ft. Lauderdale to Caldera, Costa Rica from $3599
12/07/2009 14 days Caldera, Costa Rica to Ft. Lauderdale from $3599
03/20/2010 5 days St. Thomas to St. Thomas from $1499
03/25/2010 7 days St. Thomas to St. Thomas from $1999

Seabourn Spirit
11/15/2009 12 days Lisbon to Ft. Lauderdale from $2765
12/16/2009 5 days St. Thomas to Ft. Lauderdale from $1349

Seabourn Pride
02/13/2010 14 days Singapore to Hong Kong from $4999
02/27/2010 14 days Hong Kong to Singapore from $5249
03/13/2010 14 days Singapore to Hong Kong from $5249

Seabourn Odyssey
11/28/2009 12 days Ft. Lauderdale to Ft. Lauderdale from $3999

What Happens When Customer Service, Rather Than The Customer, Is Right (?)

A singer, David Carroll, had his $4,000 guitar, sent as checked luggage, broken by United Airlines. When United jerked him around...

Goldring Travel's 2009 Food & Wine Cruise - Seabourn Spirit Update

As I mentioned the other day, I had an unfortunate last minute cancellation for the Goldring Travel Food & Wine Cruise aboard the Seabourn Spirit, departing on September 26, 2009, round trip Venice, so there may still be an opportunity to join us.

For those going, thinking about going, wishing they could go...or just curious, I have finalized our Walking Wine Tour of Venice. Here are the details:

On Saturday, September 26, 2009, at about 10:30 a.m. we will meet in the lobby of the Ca’ Segredo Hotel and take a one minute ride in a traghetti (a simple gondola) across the Grand Canal to the Rialto Market. (If you watch Anthony Bourdain’s show, No Reservations – Venice on the Travel Channel you can see the market…which, because it is Italy, is in no rush to open, so we don’t need to start too early! Here is list of restaurants Tony has visited: Tony's Venice Restaurants )

After a casual wander we will take the traghetti back to Ca’ Segredo Hotel and meet up with our guide for the walking tour, which will start at 11:30 a.m. and last about 3 hours…stopping, of course, to eat and drink. (Don’t worry about starting at 11:30 a.m., the Venetians will have started drinking before us!)

WINES OF VENICE AND THE VENETO - Explore the hidden corners of Venice with your expert wine guide, who is a professional sommelier. Enjoy a glimpse of local life while learning about traditional local wines and their place in the local culture. You will visit 2 wine bars (enoteche) in an authentic area of Venice, off the beaten path. In each wine bar, your personal sommelier will select two typical quality wines for you to taste, each paired with small Venetian appetizers, called cicchetti. We will start with white wines, and finish with red wines.

During your time together, you will learn about the most important aspects of Italian wine production and its role in Italian culture. Regardless of your level of wine knowledge, you will find this walk both informative and fun. Your guide will be happy to focus on any particular wine topic that interests you most, including history, tasting guidelines or quality standards.

Our guide: MARIO PICCININ - Mario is a certified Italian Sommelier (AIS) and Master Cheese Taster (ONAF). His background also includes a degree in the Science of Food Production from the University of Bologna. Mario, a native of Milan, has lived in the Veneto for 35 years, and his grandmother was from the Cannaregio sestiere of Venice. He is an experienced wine educator, and particularly enjoys the wine tasting seminars he regularly organizes for the U.S. diplomatic corps in Italy. In the past Mario led a seminar on Italian wine and food for the undergraduate students of Boston University studying in Padova. He also works as a travel consultant, specializing the wine and food of the Veneto, Friuli and Trentino Alto-Adige. Mario lives in Padova with his wife, Rachel, a native of Ohio, and their two children. He can often be heard to say "A glass of wine is not merely something to drink, but a true reminder of our history, traditions and culture."

We will end the tour back at Ca’ Segredo where we can take a water taxi to the Seabourn Spirit.

As you read from my often, it is more about seeking out and understanding the local life that brings a traveler memories. I think this is an excellent start to a week celebrating food and wine and, of course, discovering the local life, as we cruise the Adriatic Sea.

The Sojourn of the Seabourn Odyssey Pre-Inaugural Cruise - The Upper Suite Details

OK, now its time to see what the top shelf Seabourn suites are like on the Seabourn Odyssey.  There are basically four different suites:  Penthouse, Owner's, Signature and Wintergarden.  They are, quite refreshingly, unique, modern, very well thought out and not filled with gimmicks...though if you look you can find one or two.

Penthouse Suite - The really unique thing about these suites is the etched glass enclosure which separates the bedroom from the living room.  It gives a great sense of space while dividing it...which seems counter-intuitive...but works.

The Owner's Suites are located forward, overlooking the bow with a nice wraparound deck:

The Signature Suite is really a slightly larger Owner's Suite:

The Signature Suite can be combined with the adjoining Veranda Suite to create two bedroom Grand Signature Suite;

My favorite suite is the Wintergarden Suite, located midship on Deck 7.  It combines great living space with a funky bathroom, a glassed-in wintergarden and nice outdoor deck space in a wonderfully convenient location:

The Wintergarden Suite can also be combined with the adjoining somewhat unique Veranda Suite to create a Grand Wintergarden Suite.  As of now that suite cannot be booked independent of the Wintergarden Suite:

I have many more photos, but this should give you enough of the suite details to whet your appetite.