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Thursday, August 28, 2008

Mariner of the Seas - A Hurricane Runs Through It...Almost

We were greeted with the news of Gustav, which is projected to take the same cruise we had scheduled: Haiti, Jamaica, Grand Cayman and Cozumel, we made a hard left (East) and are visiting St. Thomas and St. Maarten. This gives us 2 extra sea days and 2 ports I really have no great desire to visit.

One big plus to having a suite is that you do not need to need to stand in the tour desk line...or the line for ice show tickets. I must say I feel really bad for the people that stood in line for half a day to arrange tours only for the itinerary to be changed and them all having to stand in line for another half a day changing them again. Yesterday the line literally ran down 75% of the Promenade. That was much worse than the line of 100+ waiting for ice show tickets. I, on the other hand, just walked to the Concierge Lounge and the tours (parasailing) and ice show tickets were done instantly; albeit I did have to wait for one person.

The Concierge Lounge is also a nice place for a quiet drink before dinner. Nothing fancy, but definitely acceptable.

We have dined in Chops, the extra cost alternative steak restaurant ($25 per person) and have had two good to very good meals with very good service (better than Regent). Looking forward to a nice meal and a decent wine list (yes, it's true!) has made things a bit better. The grilled Portobella mushroom and asparagus spears was so good I had it both nights. My wife's tuna Carpaccio was OK and her lobster bisque was actually quite good. My veal chop was very good and my T-Bone was OK (far better than the main restaurant). My wife's filet mignon was very good as was her lamb. The ala carte side dishes were OK, but the huge baked potatoes are worthy of note. I cannot figure out why most people do not try this venue for at least one night. (Last night I tried Portofino and will let you know below if this second alternative restaurant also succeeds.)

Yesterday, while everyone was off the boat in St. Thomas I took some time to check out the ship sans the crowds.

- The Windjammer is actually a very pleasant space. The food, however, reminds me of the college cafeteria. I sampled a bit from here and a bit from there and most was just not that good; some awful. They do prepare vegetables nicely.

- The Solarium (the adults only pool and lounge area) is actually pretty darn nice. A lot of thought went into this space with comfortable lounges (fitted cushions over the standard pool lounges), nicely tiled mosaic flooring, numerous classy artistic touches and shelter from the wind. Any luxury line's guests would be pleased with this space. What a difference from a sea day with it overflowing with people, saved lounges, no room in the spas or pool, etc.

- The Main Pool is also a really nicely designed and attractive space...if you can get past the thousand plus lounge chairs.

- The Promenade is also very attractive if you look into the pub or wine bar and see it without the throngs of people.

And that is, for me, the problem. It is not signing for this or that (never bothered me). And most of the prices actually seem quite reasonable...save the bottled water. It is the people and the noise. Oh, that noise. It is exhausting. So I am avoiding it. My suite and balcony is great. The Concierge Lounge is nice. The Connoisseur's Club for a cigar and a whiskey is also nice (but could use better air cleaners). The alternative restaurants are also good. So there are places to make this ship OK.

But I will paint a picture from two nights ago that pretty much sums it up. After a nap on my balcony, we had drinks in the Concierge Lounge and then went to Chops for a nice meal. We then wandered over to the Connoisseur's Club and decided to call it a night. AND THEN IT WAS DISCO NIGHT IN THE PROMENADE. Bam, it hit me in the face. My lovely evening was ended by the reality of where I was. (But to be fair, there were hundreds of people that absolutely had a blast and the love the crowds and noise.)

Last night was interesting on a number of levels.

First, I have come to the conclusion that the Kid's Program is designed to work with the least common denominator and, therefore, loses the interest of most of the children. At first I thought it was my 12 year old being, well, 12 years old. But he has consistently told me that the programs are not of interest and, to be honest, they don't sound very interesting to me. (They probably were good 3-5 years ago, but times they are a changin'.) My 9 year old says she is treated as a child and the activities are "for babies". and, when looking at them, they pretty much all seem like "high energy, low thought" games. So many children simply opt out of the programs...and I actually have more work making sure my 9 year old is OK and entertained than when I am cruising on, for example, Regent or Celebrity. And I thought the kids would LOVE this cruise. It is was a main motivator for our being here in the first place. I guess rock climbing, miniature golf, etc. only goes so far with today's sophisticated children.

Second, the food thing really wears you down. Last night in Portofino we had an OK meal. Every word was scripted and the food had about the same amount of imagination. "My name is X and although I am from the Philippines, I will do my best to be your Italian waiter this evening." His assistant kept calling my wife "My Lady" and me "Senor". Huh??? My smoked duck salad was good, and the cold tomato soup was fine (not great), but the main course...the recommended pasta with seafood had no flavor other than crushed red peppers (a classic cover for no taste items) and frozen seafood. Even the recommended dessert sampler was just OK. Two of the four dishes were tasteless with one literally overwhelmed by the use of too much cornstarch, but the other two were actually quite good (tiramisu and a flourless chocolate cake). BUT the thing that really got me was the infamous pitch (not yet heard on this ship) about making sure we give great marks when we rate everything. We canceled our second seating in Portofino and have added a third at Chops. Tonight is our second venture into the main dining room.

Third, after our post-dinner drink my wife wanted to check out the party on the pool deck. I went back to the Suite. She wasn't 10 minutes behind me. Over 1,000 having a very loud, and very happy, time was just not something she could deal with. I came up with the idea of going to Ellington's in the Viking Crown Lounge on Deck 14 (yes...and there is one deck higher!) where we could observe the party from up high and through glass windows, shielded from the noise and crowds. It was actually very nice to observe...like Times Square on New Year's Eve. This leads me to conclude that my perspectives are, in fact, not actually fair. Royal Caribbean does an excellent job at delivering what it is supposed to be delivering. I don't eat at TGI Fridays; I don't go to dance clubs; and, although I am in far better "shape" to do it, I haven't done a belly flop in years.

Even with the itinerary change I do not see many sad faces, the food is being eaten, the parties are packed...and the ship is spotless, my suite remains pristine (and two burned out bulbs were changed immediately), and I am fairly relaxed about it all.

Today, we are in St. Maarten along with the Freedom of the Seas (5,000+ passengers) and the Carnival Valor. With over 10,000 people descending on this little island, believe it or not, Mariner of the Seas is our Oasis. (What a good name for a Royal Caribbean ship! OMG, RCCL has sucked me in!) But I do have the harsh reality of then having two days at sea having to share this very interesting ship with all those other people.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Mariner of the Seas - My First 24 Hours

It has been a very interesting 24 hours aboard Royal Caribbean's Mariner of the Seas. With approximately 3,735 passengers onboard, with quite a mix of ages, ethnicities, languages and socioeconomic classes, there is much that I have observed and some that just disappoints. Overall though, it has been more tolerable than I expected, though not my idea of a perfect cruise.

We arrived yesterday around 11:30 am and had a very painless check-in and were heading up the gangway in about 15 minutes. Our Grand Suite wouldn't be ready until 1:00 pm and we were not permitted to drop off our carry-on luggage so we started a brief tour of the ship a bit bogged down.

First stop was the spa, so the sea day massages could be booked at the desired times. There was no hard sell. I briefly inspected the complimentary steam room and sauna and other facilities and they were quite nice and sparkling clean. We then stopped by Johnny Rockets, the pool (with a scary number of lounge chairs), the rock climbing wall and miniature golf. The kids purchased their soda cards ($25 +15% gratuity) so they can have all the soda they want without the constant single charges.

It was time to eat, so we ventured into the Windjammer Café and had an OK meal from the buffet. (I do not remember ever seeing a hamburger that looked like what they were serving, but it was OK.) The seating was nicer than expected in faux rattan chairs, but the ambiance is not something I enjoyed with literally over 1,000 people walking past.

It was now time to see our suite. I was, and remain, pleasantly surprised by it. It is larger than the suites on Seabourn or Regent Seven Seas or Cunard, with a very comfortable full size sofa bed, queen bed, two comfortable chairs (plus one by the vanity desk), a nice bar, plenty of closet and drawer space and a very nice, large, marble bathroom with double sinks under a granite top and a full bathtub/shower. The balcony is large enough for two lounges, two chairs and a table. While it comes with only one lounge, a request of our cabin steward and a second lounge appeared. TV with DVD and an excellent sound system is also included. The bed was extremely comfortable and the linens crisp and comfortable. It was spotless and smelled clean and fresh. This is becoming my refuge. 

Suites also have the use of the Concierge Club with complimentary drinks and snacks before dinner, as well as a fairly nice continental breakfast. More importantly, the concierge takes care of ice show tickets, tours, etc., avoiding literally hour long lines. It is a bit of a refuge and relief as well.

When I reappeared from my suite a terrible thing happened: Thousands of more people appeared. It turned the Promenade from a curiosity with a couple of possible places to have a glass of wine, to an echoing and loud mall/hall with tables being set up for the sale of cheap jewelry and liquor.

After a rousing game of miniature golf with the kids, I checked out my table for dinner. Incredibly we had been placed in probably the worst table in the restaurant, stuck in a back room next to a service door on the lowest of the three levels...with no view of anything. Shocking for a suite guest to be placed there. Equally amazing there was available an excellent table on the third (top) level right by the railing overlooking the entire restaurant and just above the pianist and violinist...transforming the massive space into what was admittedly a pretty elegant and quaint one.

With the kids enjoying room service (with a limited, but acceptable, menu) and planning out their evening, we had a drink in our suite and then we all ventured out to the show, which was very entertaining with a comic and a juggler (http://jeffthejuggler.com/). Then dinner.

This is where "my" cruise really falls apart. Our waiter is OK, but I cannot tell if he is genuinely friendly or if I should be looking for my wallet at the end of the meal. The service was polite, if not a bit rough around the edges. It was as if I was being rushed to complete my meal after waiting to place my order. The waiter served my wine - which I appreciated - as I saw the next table waiting a painfully long time for the sommelier. My first course was a Hot and Sour Shrimp soup which was hot and sour, but the broth had little other flavors and the shrimp had that watered down taste and mushy consistency of thawed shrimp that had been dumped from the tub with the defrosted water into the soup at the last minute. My wife's onion and cheese tart was OK, but with no style and curiously covered with red peppers. Salads were basic. Her sirloin steak was marginal at best (small, thin and tasteless) and was accompanied by a scoop of mash potatoes (you could see the scoop marks) and some diced vegetables. I went with the end cut prime rib and baked potato. The meat was dry, but it had a bit of flavor. It was, alas, food and nothing more. (Tonight we are trying Chops.)

We ended our evening in the Connoisseur's Club, the cigar and whisky lounge. It is a very nice venue, but curiously had a big screen TV which dampens the ambiance; though it remains one of the quietest places on the ship...which is hopping everywhere else! It is very sparingly used (maybe 3 couples at a time), but it does need better ventilation.

After a very restful night's sleep our breakfast arrived. The order had most of what we ordered, much we did not. It had tasteless powdered eggs and paste-like potatoes with dry, tasteless pastries. The coffee was actually quite acceptable as was the bacon. The rest was pretty much inedible, so cereal and fruits may be the only way to go.

I won't bore you with our morning activities, but the pool was pretty much filled and, as such, the whirlpool tubs were overwhelmed with kids. The Promenade was filled with announcements for raffles, etc. I like my suite.

We tried lunch in the Dining Room. The service was even more rough and let's just say that I will not be eating any more shrimp on this ship. I actually think the buffet might be a better option...if you can deal with all the people.

That's it for my first 24 hours.

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Mariner of the Seas Travelogue - Prologue

I promise I will not bore you with the minutia of taxi rides and pre-cruise meals in this travelogue, but rather will try to give some perspective from a travel agent's and a parent's points of view as I venture back into the world known as mass market cruising.  On Sunday I will be boarding Royal Caribbean's Mariner of the Seas settling in a Grand Suite on a sold out Caribbean cruise as Tropical Storm Fay just departs.

As my family is rather jaded from all of the cruises they have taken - and where they have traveled -  it took until last night for them to show any real interest in the cruise.  My wife asked about the specialty restaurants, forgetting our discussing same weeks ago when I pre-reserved two nights each in Chops (steaks and fish) and Portofino (Italian).  My kids, after first stating they were not that excited because we wouldn't be getting off the ship much (2 sea days and Jamaica), realized that for the first time in a couple of years they would have a "real" kid's club...and now that they are getting older, some real independence.

As for myself, I am trying to look at my cruise on this behemoth much differently from any of my prior cruises...as I remember my ship inspection of the Explorer of the Seas thinking negatively: "Shopping Mall".  (My kids, of course, hear my complaint and shout with glee, "Cool!")

My last Royal Caribbean cruise was in 2001 in an owner's suite on the Nordic Empress (then Empress of the Seas and now gone from the fleet as too small and unique).  I do admit that once I got over all the blue-green glass and brass I found the crew very enthusiastic and I did have a good time (though the food was marginal).  I will not, however, forget my tablemates:  a very nice couple albeit he happened to be a cook at a youth jail somewhere in Pennsylvania.  Ya' never know!

I will be taking some time on this trip to work on some plans for two of my next ones:  The Seabourn Spirit on September 27, 2008 (Athens to Istanbul) and my son's Bar Mitzvah Safari in August 2009.  I am sure that somehow some comparisons...and hopefully some good ideas...will be generated while on this cruise.

So after a few days in Florida visiting my mother, and the Kennedy Space Center for lunch with an astronaut...and, of course, rain predicted for every day!...we will board and I will let you know.

Monday, August 18, 2008

Sommelier and Masseuse - Specialists for Some

There is a very interesting article in the August 31, 2008 edition of Wine Spectator concerning people's expectations and use of sommeliers, wine service and wine with food generally.

I think there is a lot to be learned by the luxury cruise lines not only as to what is expected, but what is perceived as acceptable. I also have some thoughts about wine service on premium and mass market lines. Bottom Line: The Cruise Lines Have It Wrong...but not as you might think.

My starting point is that as to "most restaurants" 52% of the Wine Spectator respondents feel wine service is only Fair and a mere 1% believe same to be Excellent. I pause and wonder if we all have been the victims of marketing...the customers by being encouraged to have false expectations and restaurants by being unable to reasonably and economically provide excellent wine service.

With that underwhelming start, I then noted that 84% do not want the sommelier to taste their wine and 57% said a sommelier or wine steward's presence isn't even needed. That left me wondering if they should simply be omitted until they really know their craft or are used only in restaurants that have a true wine following. What stumps me a bit is that 81% of the people (including many of the 57% who don't need them) believe the advice they have been given by their wine steward is Good or Excellent. Maybe it is just that we can live with or without them, but they are nice to have around.

As my final initial observation, I note that on land 71% spend $75 or less on average for a bottle of wine (26% less then $50) and a whopping 73% dine at restaurants with a serious wine list only once a month. As to the wine's value, more are concerned with having an interesting variety (63%), than good value (10%) or, necessarily, good compatibility with food (24%).

Relating this to the luxury cruise experience, it leaves me believing that most passengers are not going to be spending a fortune on wine, but want a wine waiter (not a sommelier or wine steward) to give them good advice and much prefer a variety of wines either poured by the glass (and 91% do purchase premium wines by the glass on land) or in the wine list. What most passengers do not need, and will not miss, is "The Show".

There are some, however, that do want The Show and do want premium wines...with a sommelier that knows what he is talking about. They are willing to pay extra for this service (as 43% say they tip 20% on the wine and 42% say they tip 15%)...and remembering that only 10% felt price was important.

This leaves me believing that for the luxury cruise lines a true sommelier should be treated as a speciality; like a masseuse. It is a service that a passenger can avail him/herself of if they are willing to pay for it, but as with a spa in general, there are many aspects that can be utilized as no or less additional charge.

Let's put this into play: Mr. and Mrs. Jones are on a 14 day cruise which includes their anniversary. Each evening wine waiters offer the selected wines (chosen to compliment the food being served) and are knowledgeable enough to briefly explain the wines, offer a tasting and, if necessary, offer the pre-selected alternatives again with brief explanations. (Remember this actually satisfies 57% of wine involved passengers and also appeases quite a large portion of the 43% that do want some assistance.) This will undoubtedly satisfy the Jones for most evenings. But for that special evening they want to spurge, so the sommelier - with the attendant value incorporated into the wine's price - provides a full service.

To be sure, the Jones may want to upscale their wine experiences after having the sommelier and wonderful wines, but just like with the spa, they have the choice of spending extra on another massage or wine experience. This is, of course, the name of the game for the cruise lines: Onboard Revenue.

My point is rather than having a bunch of faux wine stewards who really know nothing about wine putting off 84% of the people who do not want them to taste the wine or the 57% who think the whole thing is unimportant, have wine waiters with decent wines and the vast majority will be happy. Further, by taking pressure off of the true sommeliers from having to explain the supposed nuances of that "wonderful" White Zinfandel , they can provide a much higher quality service to those willing to pay for it...and generate greater onboard revenue to those willing to spend $100+ bottle rather than those spending less the $50.

As for the premium and mass market lines, I would strongly urge that the efforts in the dining room be made to improving the wine list - with quality wines and readable, understandable, explanation of the wines - to go along with the elimination of wine stewards and sommeliers (as some have already done). I am tired of the faux sommelier being overworked and having to wait 30 minutes for an ordinary bottle of wine. Serve it and let me enjoy my selection!

That said, I would have a true sommelier available in the upscale speciality restaurants...with it being an option...unless the cost of the sommelier is included in the additional cost of the dinner. Having a faux sommelier undercuts that premium experience which those willing to pay the premium probably are going to expect when they see the guy in the fancy jacket and vest. Remember: As shown, most are quite happy - even content - with a solid wine list and their own knowledge.

As a final thought: For those who insist on The Show for a $35 bottle of wine, please remember that when you go to the spa, you don't get a massage for free; and the other passengers really should have to have their massage or wine experience compromised because of your false expectation. However, if you want The Show, for a mere $50 extra you can have it. (Hint, Hint.)

That, however, is not an insult to those wanting The Show, but rather a warning to the cruise lines and restaurants: Please reeducate yourselves and your customers. You are doing a disservice to your passengers, to your actually trained sommelier and to your bottom line.

Friday, August 15, 2008

Exclusive Seabourn Spirit Offer - Istanbul to Alexandria - November 8, 2008

Whether Seabourn just finished reading my blog, I have incredible intuition, or it is happenstance, it really doesn't matter, but I was just contacted by Seabourn with an exclusive offer than fits in perfectly with my last post....and must be acted upon immediately if you are interested:

I am thrilled to offer this truly outstanding cruise to anyone who has not experienced a Seabourn cruise, who is looking for an exotic getaway this Fall, or who just wants an incredible deal on a cruise:

Seabourn Spirit – November 8, 2008
Istanbul, Turkey to Alexandria, Egypt
Only $__(The Price is So Low I Cannot Post It Here) per person*

(*You will be booked as an A Guaranty Suite, but this offer is NOT limited to Category A oceanview suites, so you may be surprised by what suite you ultimately may be assigned by the time of sailing! And you thought all * were signs of bad news!!!)
This price includes port charges/fees, but not taxes or fuel supplement. This fare is capacity controlled, so it may be withdrawn at any time.

Here is the itinerary:

Nov 8 S Istanbul, Turkey
9 SU Cruising The Dardandelles
10 M Piraeus (Athens), Greece
11 T Navplion (Mycenae), Greece
12 W Aghios Nikolaos, Crete, Greece
13 TH Rhodes, Greek Isles
14 F Cruising The Mediterranean Sea
15 S Alexandria (Cairo), Egypt

If you are interested DO NOT DELAY. Please call or email me immediately. (Some of you were disappointed when you delayed in responding to my last exclusive offer. Please don’t let that happen again!)

An Interesting Trend - More Last Minute and Higher Quality Cruises. Why?

I have seen over the past couple of weeks - the usual time for the summer doldrums -  a very interesting trend:  People are tending to book cruises for the latter part of this year and on longer itineraries and in higher categories.

While the trend of cruise lines offering lower fares closer in seems to be reemerging...apparently as a result of the softening economy (possibly both in the U.S. and Europe), I am finding my clients, rather than booking their initially selected category, are using their travel budget to improve their cabins/suites and/or length of their cruise, rather than to pocket the funds for other purposes.  This is an interesting trend that would seem, at first, counterintuitive.  I think, however, it actually makes a lot of sense and may actually be a sign of something other than doomsday approaching.

Going to basic economics, one must first look at the mortgage meltdown.  Most of the mortgages that are being foreclosed upon were for people that could not actually afford their homes or were living off of equity they really didn't have...tapping the last 20% of the home's worth.  Those souls may have gone on a cruise or two, but probably were not a major force in the cruise market.  But the impact was more than the chilling effect on those who had a responsible adjustable rate mortgage rather than a 1% interest that adjusted.  A larger impact was on the top end...the investors...that ran up the value of these mortgages in the financial markets; but those also represent a very small portion of those that cruise. 

The real impact for the cruise industry was on those how just had the stuffing scared out of them:  The vast majority of the population. 

But then there was more scary stuff:  When the mortgage securities market began failing, those same investors had to put there money somewhere...and it was oil.  Without getting into politics, the same mortgage speculators became oil speculators...and the media ran with various politicians and politically active financial "talking heads" claiming it was all demand. 

While we can thank them for the now probably permanent "fuel supplements" on our cruises and the havoc they have caused in the airline industry, their irrational cries that a leaking pipe in Nigeria a legitimate reason for a $5 a barrel rise in oil (when such a thing never had any effect in the past) because demand was so huge was just accepted.  How that .001% change in supply was a supposed two-headed monster always baffled me.  [Compare:  Russia invades Georgia under the cover of the Olympics, three oil supply lines were shutdown as a precaution, there are ominous "Cold War" trends appearing...and oil prices are dropping like a rock.  Hummm?????]

But two things have happened:  The European economies started to soften - causing the dollar to increase in value - and Congress said, "We want to stop oil speculators"...despite others steadfastly claiming it was merely demand.

Well, those mortgage securities investors...I'm sorry, I meant oil specutors...decided they didn't want the same regulatory prosecutions happening to them as a result of their oil activities and they began dumping their oil futures contracts.  (One amazing thing is that I heard today that home heating oil may actually be less expensive this winter than last!)

With oil now at less than $111 a barrel, down from a $150+ high, and it being done in just a few short weeks, I think people are starting to breath.

And with the cruise lines suffering from lower (not "low" by any means) demand both in the U.S. and Europe, there is more inventory to sell closer in.  Combine that with the prospects for lower gas and heating oil prices, a bit of stabilization in the stock market in most sectors (if not banking!) coupled with most people having actually cut back spending in anticipation of the worst...but still committed to taking a vacation, and there you have it.

So, if you are one that is now "taking a breath", seeing it isn't going to cost you $100 to fill up your car, and realizing that your mortgage isn't going to automatically explode, take a look at some of the incredible offers being given by the cruise lines.  Remember many people have to plan their vacations quite a few months in advance.  They are already committed, so the close in inventory is their for you to grab...and enjoy.

But, possibly, say to yourself:  That oceanview is $1,000 less than it said in the brochure, why not upgrade to a balcony?  Or from a balcony to a suite...though suite sales have remained strong all along, so there are not as many of those opportunities. Or rather than taking a 7 day Caribbean cruise, how about a Panama Canal cruise?  Or back-to-back a Mediterranean cruise?

So whether you want to board "My Yacht", "Get Out There", "Be Treated Famously" or whatever, now is a great time to consider an autumn cruise.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Regent Seven Seas, Please Listen: Luxury Is Really About Service

I guess with a bit of irony I commented in my post this morning that Regent's trumpeting $40,000,000 of hardware upgrades on the Voyager and Mariner was good news, but there needs to be a significant improvement in the service department.

I was just taking a look over at the Cruise Critic boards and saw a new thread today speaking of services misses that were, quite disappointingly, similar to that which I have experienced over the past few years.  And the services misses were not from one person, but quite a few. 

Problems with wine stewards that can't be bothered and pour what they have in their hand; simple dining requests that are given a "NO" rather than making it magically happen; being told to wait for tea service rather than providing a few minutes early; leaving a passenger struggling on the dock with luggage; being rushed through dinner, etc., etc., etc.  

What makes me believe that things are not improving is that the people complaining did so with the qualification that it did not ruin their cruise, but that the level of service was simply inferior to most cruise lines and did not warrant the premium pricing. 

I do not want to beat a dead horse, but it just baffles me how Prestige Cruise Holdings is throwing money at hardware, but history shows that it is service, service and service that really makes the difference...not just in getting new passengers, but in keeping them and building loyalty.