Goldring Travel's 2008 Food & Wine Cruise on the Seabourn Spirit: Travelogue Part IV

Up early we disembarked the Seabourn Spirit for a few days in Istanbul.

We stayed at the Ceylon Intercontinental rather than our normal hotel, The Ciragan Palace.  With the relative strength of the new Turkish Lira to the falling Pound and Euro, coupled with extraordinary hotel demand in Istanbul, The Ciragan Palace became just too expensive.  We made the right decision.  For the same price as a Bosporus view room at Ciragan we were able to book a large suite at the Ceylon.  Combining that rate with our membership in Intercontinental Ambassador's program which provides for a complimentary upgrade...and then using the annual, one weekend night free, coupon...we were upgraded to the Galata Suite (a two room suite complete with a whirlpool tub with a glass walled view of Istanbul from Topkapi Palace to Ortakoy and the bridge to Asia.)

We took a lovely, if not long, walk from Taksim Square to the Galata Bridge, over to the Spice Bazaar and then to the Grand Bazaar, then walking back to the Golden Horn...where we decided it was time to grab a taxi.  After a power nap it was off to a wonderful dinner at Bice with our "family" in Istanbul.

The next day started out absolutely beautiful, so we decided to skip the hamam (Turkish baths) and take the ferry over to Buyukada, the largest of the Princess Islands.  It was a short walk to the ferry and for about $1.50 we were off on a 1 1/2 hour ferry ride to the Asian side of Istanbul and to 4 of the Princess Islands.  Sounds great, right?  Well about 30 minutes in the wind and rain started and then the seas got rough.

We eventually arrived in Buyukada in the rain.  We found a lovely local place for a truly delicious lunch of grilled fish, Iskender kebab, cicik, ekmek and salads and then decided discretion was the better part of valor and we headed back to take an earlier ferry home since the weather wasn't cooperating.  But this is where it got interesting for me.

The highlight of my day was watching all of the different cultures on the ferry.  How the rudest people were a small group comprised of two Arab men and four women in burkhas.  How the tough older Turkish men would not give up their seats for anyone...until two elderly Caucasian women came by and they quickly did so.  How everyone was so tolerant of the Turkish children...who were always treated like treasures.  How I noticed more woman with Muslim head-coverings than I had in my previous visits.

However, my ultimate ferry ride highlight, was the salesman.  A large, bald, loud, voice-strained, man in a crooked tie who was selling sets of kitchen knives - flashing them about like an angry sultan!  He was good...very good.  And all the while I am thinking of those that improperly consider Istanbul such a dangerous place and here was a man literally supplying huge knives to the entire ferry as if it was nothing.  (Imagine that on the Staten Island Ferry going to New York City!).  I did not understand a word of what he was saying, but I kept thinking "Damn, he's good!"  And when the knives were sold out, he sold those little lemon juicer gizmos and then pens.  It was a great day...and an example of ya' never know.

That evening we were guests at one of the hottest restaurants in Istanbul:  360.  Very trendy.  If you didn't know where it was, you would never know it was there.  The views are worth finding the place...which late in the night becomes a "see and be seen" club.  It is nice to have family in Istanbul!

One last walk around Istanbul in the morning before heading to the airport.  And what a memorable ride that was.  There was horrible traffic on the expressway, so our taxi driver used the shoulder, entrance ramps...even construction zones...to weave his way to the airport. You had to be there to appreciate the terror! 

But we made it...and so ended our absolutely fantastic Seabourn Food & Wine Cruise 2008.

Exclusive Seabourn Spirit Offer - Istanbul to Alexandria - November 8, 2008

Whether Seabourn just finished reading my blog, I have incredible intuition, or it is happenstance, it really doesn't matter, but I was just contacted by Seabourn with an exclusive offer than fits in perfectly with my last post....and must be acted upon immediately if you are interested:

I am thrilled to offer this truly outstanding cruise to anyone who has not experienced a Seabourn cruise, who is looking for an exotic getaway this Fall, or who just wants an incredible deal on a cruise:

Seabourn Spirit – November 8, 2008

Istanbul, Turkey to Alexandria, Egypt

Only $__(The Price is So Low I Cannot Post It Here) per person*

(*You will be booked as an A Guaranty Suite, but this offer is NOT limited to Category A oceanview suites, so you may be surprised by what suite you ultimately may be assigned by the time of sailing! And you thought all * were signs of bad news!!!)

This price includes port charges/fees, but not taxes or fuel supplement. This fare is capacity controlled, so it may be withdrawn at any time.

Here is the itinerary:

Nov 8 S Istanbul, Turkey
9 SU Cruising The Dardandelles
10 M Piraeus (Athens), Greece
11 T Navplion (Mycenae), Greece
12 W Aghios Nikolaos, Crete, Greece
13 TH Rhodes, Greek Isles
14 F Cruising The Mediterranean Sea
15 S Alexandria (Cairo), Egypt

If you are interested DO NOT DELAY. Please call or email me immediately. (Some of you were disappointed when you delayed in responding to my last exclusive offer. Please don’t let that happen again!)

It's Like a Sandwich! Seabourn Spirit - New Ports for 2009

It is not the bread that usually distinguishes or defines a a sandwich. Tuna or cheese, roast beef or chicken salad; you don't usually mention the bread. It is not that the bread is unimportant, but it is just not as important for most. "Tuna on rye" or "Chicken salad on a hard roll"; never the other way around. Without the bread you don't have a sandwich and with the bread (save white bread) you add flavor and texture...but it is not the meat of the meal.

It is not so different for cruise itineraries. Figuring out new ports for a cruise ship is not easy because there are only so many ports that can be used to provision a ship and, at the same time, efficiently and quickly gather passengers from a close by airport (oh, yes, and also fly out "those other people" who have been using "your" ship...disembarking guests.)

So when you see Athens-Istanbul or Venice-Rome or Barcelona-Nice don't assume because you see the "bread" of the itinerary that you know what the "meat" is. You just might be missing a truly outstanding and innovative feast as you declare "Been There. Done That!"

And please do not make the mistake of saying, "I've been to Italy before." I live in Colts Neck, New Jersey. I live in horse country, am 10 minutes from beautiful lakes, 15 minutes from the ocean and 45 minute from New York City. Oh, and a Six Flags is 30 minutes away. I would never think that visiting my home is the same as visiting New York City or would give you the flavor of the Jersey Shore. These are not subtle differences, but rather far more unique than related. Italy, Croatia, Spain, France, etc. are all very similar in that regard. To a true traveler, it is pretty hard to say "Been There. Done That."

Now, let's take a look at the the Seabourn Spirit's 2009 itineraries. Borrowing from a Seabourn release I offer to you the following:

In 2009, the Seabourn Spirit will inaugurate three (3) new week-long itineraries sailing from Civitavecchia and Venice to some of the most unusual and desirable destinations on the Dalmatian and Apulian coasts of the Adriatic. The itineraries may be combined without repeating ports.

The Dalmatian Coast is a veritable filigree of islands large and small, most harboring medieval towns as picturesque as they are friendly. Some, like Rovinj, Croatia, are joined to the mainland by causeways. They share the red-tiled roofs and candy-colored facades that have enchanted visitors to Dubrovnik, but the ones Seabourn Spirit is visiting are less crowded. Most have some claim to fame, such as ornate Austrian villas at Split and a Roman theater at Trieste, but the real attraction is the scenic beauty, the clear waters, forested peaks and the friendly people. Rovinj, Hvar, Kotor and Korcula and Koper all are places you will never forget once you’ve seen them. All offer chances to bike, kayak or explore on foot, and all three itineraries offer a Marina day at Triluke Bay, Croatia or in Italy’s Gulf of Squillace.

Situated on the heel of Italy’s boot, Apulia is “Italy as it used to be.” A latecomer to tourism, Apulia has been happily supplying wine (10 percent of what’s consumed in Europe is grown there), olive oil, almonds and other foodstuffs. Now small luxury inns are springing up among the rustic towns. Apulia’s landscape looks different from the rest of Italy, slightly Oriental with intensely local customs and unique, round stone-roofed houses called trulli.

So, is Seabourn is offering up the same old thing? Rome and Venice is the bread (tasty in their own rights), but the stuff in between seems like a wonderful buffet of new experiences.

Seabourn Food & Wine Cruise - September 27, 2008

On September 27, 2008 I will be hosting a special Food & Wine Cruise on the all suite, all luxury, Seabourn Spirit cruising from Athens to Istanbul. I have a number of events and tours planned which should make this cruise even better than the one I hosted last year on the Seabourn Legend which cruised from Barcelona to Monte Carlo.

This is the itinerary:

Saturday - September 27 Piraeus (Athens), Greece
Sunday - September 28 Mykonos, Greek Isles
Monday - September 29 Mylos, Greek Isles
Tuesday - September 30 Patmos, Greek Isles
Wednesday -October 1 Fethiye, Turkey
Thursday - October 2 Kusadasi (Ephesus), Turkey
Friday - October 3 Cruising The Dardanelles
Saturday - October 4 Istanbul, Turkey

My thoughts and plans:

I suggest arriving early into Athens and overnighting at the St. George Lycabettus Hotel with views of the Acropolis from your room. After a rest, dinner at leisure in a local restaurant as a way to begin immersion into the Greek and Turkish foods and customs to follow.

On the morning of the cruise I will be providing a complimentary tour of Athens with one of the best driver-guides in Greece, whom I have personally used on a number of occasions. We will stop at all of the important sites, have a wander around the Plaka and then enjoy a local Greek lunch before heading over to Piraeus to board the Seabourn Spirit for a 5:00 p.m. departure.

The next morning we arrive in Mykonos...just as many of the Saturday night partiers are going to bed. This morning is a great time to slowly wander over to the beach or wander about the narrow alleys of the town, followed by a local lunch. Because the Spirit doesn't sail until 11:00 p.m. there is plenty of time to head back to the ship and then enjoy some early nightlife and dinner back in town.

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I have not yet been to Mylos, but I understand the natural beauty is breathtaking...as are the whitewashed houses and windmills. I am looking forward to what I expect to be a great opportunity to enjoy truly local foods and wines in a location unspoiled by hoards of tourists.

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In Patmos I am hosting a complimentary tour to all passengers who have booked through an Ensemble Consortium travel agent. This island, long a pilgrimage destination, offers some wonderful cultural opportunities. My tour, starting at 1:00 p.m. (so you have plenty of time to explore on your own or just "beach it"!) will include a visit to the town of Chora and the Monastery of St. John (built in 1088). From there we travel to the Grotto of St. John were it is said he wrote the Book of Revelations (95-97 AD). Leaving the important religious history of the island, we will then visit a traditional Patmain house which is said to be breathtaking and filled with 18th Century furnishings, mosaics and crafts. Finally, we drive to the settlement of Aloni for some ouzo and Greek snacks before returning the our ship in Scala.

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We cruise overnight to Fethiye, Turkey for a fantastic day which can be one immersed in the ancient Lycian history of the area including a boat ride through the numerous waterways, or tours of other nearby historical cultures of Lycian, Hellenistic, Latin and Byzantine periods or you can opt to take a tour to a wonderful hotel on the Oludeniz (Dead Sea) or just wander the local area and enjoy a Turkish Bath in a 400 year old Hamam or shop, eat and drink!

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Probably the highlight of our next day, in Kusadasi, will be our Exclusive Seabourn Experience. After a day exploring the incredible Roman city of Ephesus and the House of the Virgin Mary, and shopping at the Bazaar, Seabourn will transport us back to Ephesus for an enchanted private evening of chamber music, wine, cocktails and canapes. As we depart Kusadasi at 11:30 p.m. some evening exploration and shopping is something to consider.

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Finally a relaxing day at sea. This day, however, is not just any day at sea. We will be passing by Gallipoli, a battle site which is extraordinarily important to both sides of that war which had enormous casualties. The Turkish people consider the battle as the start of modern Turkey - with Ataturk leading the movement eight years later and the United Kingdom and Australians (ANZAC) consider it sacred not only to all those who lost their lives, but as a defining moment in understanding their nationalism.

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I plan on having a complimentary private wine tasting during the day where we can taste and discuss not only some of the interesting local wines and foods, but share some of the wonderful times we will have had during our cruise. If Seabourn comes through like it did during last year's cruise, this will be a truly memorable event.

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It is worth rising early our last morning to share our arrival in Istanbul on the port side of the ship. While we are disembarking this morning, Istanbul is a fascinating city and is, to be sure, one of my favorite places in the world. Some people are partaking of Seabourn's "Sail and Stay" program which includes transfers, two nights at the Swisshotel and a half day tour of Istanbul.

Others are making their own arrangements. I would highly recommend the Ciragan Palace and the Four Seasons as possbile alternatives.

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I will be staying in Istanbul for two days after the cruise, so I will be available to assist you while you are there. I hope to, however, be tied up in a full day visit to an ancient Hamam; something I have been looking forward to repeating from a visit some years ago!

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Highlights of Istanbul include my favorite little town of Ortakoy (which means middle village), Dolmabaci Palace, the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Yerebatan Saray (the underground cisterns - a favorite of mine!), the Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar and, of course, the Grand Bazaar. There are so many other things to do and see in Istanbul such as the Galata Tower, a ferry ride up the Bosporus, many other mosques/synagogues/churches, shops and restaurants galore, etc., etc.

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This is going to be a fantastic experience not only from all that Seabourn has to offer, but what Greece and Turkey do, from culture, history, sun and sand, food and, of course, wine.

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If you are interested in this cruise, please let me know as soon as possible. There is limited availability.